The opening of this restaurant in 2015 was like the release of a new U2 album — it couldn’t go unnoticed since the project was launched by the most prominent figures in the industry — restaurateur Ilya Tyutenkov and chef William Lamberti. They are the owners of the equally famous restaurant Ugolyok located right next door and Pinch on the Patriarchy Ponds.
The restaurant’s interior was designed by Natalia Belonogova, known in Moscow as “the queen of concrete” since she is behind every latest hit restaurant’s minimalistic concrete-based interior. Severyane is cloaked in dark shades that are tastefully diluted with red furniture and bright sparks from the colorful dishes that subconsciously take you back to the works of artists like Kazimir Malevich and Piet Mondrian.
You do feel like you have entered a dim cave somewhere in the North, albeit a designer version. The ‘cave’ is so conceptual, they even have their own curated playlists. In the summer the panoramic windows remain wide open and the restaurant crawls out into the street.
Another piece of the puzzle is the restaurant’s chef Georgy Troyan who is no less than a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. While the main “thing” in the kitchen are the traditional Russian stoves, taking care of traditional side of things, Georgy really lets himself lose in the starters department. For example while the tartar does list all of the mandatory ingredients, they have been completely reinvented: the egg is not served raw, but instead split into yolk and white, the egg white is then fried and served warm, while the yolk remains raw. Buckwheat makes an appearance in the tartar and while it sounds outrageous — makes it all work.
When it comes to the stove baked mains, whats interesting is that apart from the assumed meat and fish dishes, the menu offers an entire list of vegetables like corn, cauliflower, celery root, broccoli, brussel sprouts or a 2kg platter of all — from the stove. And that is exactly what you should order to discover that you have never been properly introduced to vegetables before. Having tried the stove baked vegetables in Severyane will make you for the first time in your life understand the vegan concept, although just for a brief second, because you will never be able to replicate these vegetables in your own kitchen. You will eventually end up moving to Moscow and getting an apartment in the building next door, just so you can have them for dinner every day.For dessert order the stove baked banana, if you want to discover that you have not been properly introduced to a banana either, or, if you are feeling naughty — the fondant with truffle ice-cream.
Have you heard of supermatism? In brief its an art movement focused on basic geometric forms, such as circles, squares, lines, and rectangles, painted in a limited range of colors. Clearly, the plating in Severyane is a tribute to this art form born in Russia.
To sum it up, you will leave having had some surprising original starters, your first ever truly delicious vegetables, and an unprecedented number of likes on your Instagram’s #foodporn pic. And then return the next day to do it all over again.
Menu preview: Scallops with carrot hummus ≈$10
Lamb tongue with beet ketchup ≈$9
Lamb with matzoni and eggplant ≈$13
Hours: 9—12 AM
Address: 12 Bolshaya Nikitinskaya Ulitsa